Do You Need a Full Bust Adjustment? Maybe Not!
One of the most common questions we hear when someone starts a new sewing project is:
"Do I need to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)?"
The answer depends on both your body and the style of the garment.
What is a Full Bust Adjustment?
A Full Bust Adjustment is a pattern alteration that adds room specifically for the bust while maintaining the original fit of the:
- Shoulders
- Neckline
- Armholes
- Upper chest
Rather than simply sizing up the entire garment, an FBA allows you to keep a well-fitting upper bodice while creating additional space where it's needed most.
FBAs are especially helpful for fitted garments with features like:
- Bust darts
- Princess seams
- Waist shaping
- Close-fitting bodices
These styles are designed to contour the body, so extra bust room often needs to be added without affecting the fit everywhere else.
When an FBA Isn't Usually Necessary
Not every pattern requires a Full Bust Adjustment.
Our patterns are typically is designed with a relaxed, oversized fit and a dropped shoulder silhouette, which naturally provides generous ease through the bust and upper body.
Many sewists can skip an FBA for this style of pattern:
- The pattern already includes substantial ease through the bust.
- The garment isn't shaped with darts, princess seams, or other fitted design lines.
- The dropped shoulder creates additional width across the upper body.
- The shirt hangs from the shoulders rather than fitting closely over the bust.
- Any additional fullness is typically accommodated within the intended oversized silhouette.
If a pattern has these design features, it already allows room for a variety of bust sizes without requiring additional adjustments.
How Should I Choose My Size?
We recommend choosing your size according to your full bust measurement. Unlike a fitted blouse or dress, oversized patterns like the Sunny Side Tank and Collage Gather Top are drafted to provide the relaxed look. Most sewists will achieve the intended fit simply by selecting the size that corresponds to their full bust.
The Bottom Line
A Full Bust Adjustment is an incredibly useful technique—but it's not something that every pattern needs. For loose-fitting, dropped-shoulder, oversized garments the built-in ease is already doing much of the work.
Instead of modifying the pattern, you can usually sew your chosen size as drafted and enjoy the comfortable, relaxed silhouette it was designed to have.
We always recommend making a toile or test pattern first!
Of course, every body is unique, and preferred fit is very personal. Customizing and modifying garments to fit your preferences best is an amazing part of sewing your own wardrobe. We can't wait to see what you make!